Sunday, December 14, 2008

New Zealand

Flying out of Bangkok less than 24 hours before government opposition forces shut down the airport, we were glad to arrive in New Zealand for the last leg of our trip before Christmas.

New Zealand has two major islands, appropriately named the North Island and the South Island. Though about equal size, the North Island has 3 million inhabitants and the South Island only 1 million. And of course, the two regions have a friendly rivalry. (When we were about to take the ferry from the South Island to the North Island, one of the Southerners said "So you're leaving New Zealand, eh?")

After four months of planes, trains, and taxis, we decided to try something different... 3 weeks in a camper van. Turns out that camper vans are something of a tradition in New Zealand as both Kiwis and tourists rent them in all shapes and sizes to see the spectacular outdoors of this beautiful country. On the South Island, we'd guess that at least 60% of the vehicles we saw (outside towns) were camper vans. We found a company that needed to get a 4-berth camper van (complete with stove, refrigerator, toilet, and shower) from Christchurch to Auckland so they gave us 50% off the going rate and threw in 3 mountain bikes.


Starting in Christchurch, we traveled south around the coast to see the amazing views... lush green hills with sheep dotting the hilsides - 40 million of them - to keep the grass looking freshly mowed, deep blue skies, fluffy white clouds, and pristine coastlines made for postcard views around every corner.




At the bottom of the South Island, we stopped at a nature preserve to see some yellow-throated penguins...

... and then stopped in Invercargill in honor of Burt Munro to see the motorcycle he used to set the under-1000cc world record, 183.6 mph, at Bonneville in 1967, a record that still stands today. Burt Munro was 68 and was riding a 47-year old machine when he set his last record. If you don't know Burt's story, watch "The World's Fastest Indian" with Anthony Hopkins.

As we wound our way up the west coast, we spent a day at Milford Sound, a stunning fjord carved by glaciers, followed by a trip to Franz Josef Glacier.







In Queenstown, we saw where bungy jumping was invented. At 134 meters (440 feet), they have the second highest bungy jump in the world (exceeded only by a 216 meter jump in Africa). Q: Of the three of us, guess who jumped? A: Lots of talk, no action. Only because it cost $120; it had nothing to do with free-falling 440 feet!

In the middle of the South Island, we stopped at Castle Hills, the place where the final battle scene for the first Narnia movie was filmed. The rocks rise like castle parapets from green meadows under azure blue skies. They have intriguing shapes and smooth rounded surfaces that make them inviting to climb. It's an -size rock playground.


While heading up the East Coast, we stopped in Kaikoura to snorkel with seals. We spent an hour swimming side-by-side with New Zealand fur seals, often less than a foot away. With their whiskers and eyes that look like huge black marbles under water, they are very cute and inquisitive.


On our way up the East Coast, we spent a day touring wineries - on mountain bikes - in New Zealand's famous Marlborough District. Six wineries and wine-tasting sessions with a 1 to 3 mile bike ride between each one made for a scenic and fun day pedaling through the vineyards. If you ever go, save room for a gourmet meal at the Allan Scott winery.



Just before we hit the top of the South Island, our camper van broke down. We limped into Nelson on a Saturday with no service stations open until Monday. We were fortunate to find Brent Pahl, an independent mechanic and beer connoisseur. For normal fees, plus a 12-pack of his favorite beer, Brent worked Saturday and Sunday to replace our wheel bearings so that the fingernails-on-blackboard screeching sound stopped.
Thanks for getting us on our way, Brent!



After a 3-hour ferry ride, we arrived on the North Island. We passed through Wellington on the way to Wairoa to meet Captain Hayden Ricketts of the New Zealand Army. David met Hayden when they took the Scuba Diving Instructor course together in Australia, Hayden cooked us a fantastic meal, including fresh scallops he picked up on a dive the previous day. After a couple hours of diving stories and reminiscing about Australia, David said g'bye to his mate and we headed north to the Bay of Islands (stopping to ride some mountain biking trails and relax in one of New Zealand's many natural hot springs).

With all the talk about diving, plus Steve's memories of his intro dive in Thailand, Steve decided to get his Open Water Scuba Diving certification. We stayed in Kerikeri for the 4 days while Steve took the course. Between classes, we had lots of other stuff to do. In one 24-hour period, we surfed, dived, and golfed. Result: exhaustion, but great memories. For Steve's final open water certification dive, the Dive Instructor let David (who is also a certified Dive Instructor) serve as Dive Master alongside him. Having David in the water for Steve's last few tests on "graduation day" made it ever more fun and meaningful. Hopefully we'll get to dive together several more times on the second half of our trip.


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As we prepare to head back to the U.S. for Christmas, we're grateful for all the ways God blessed and protected us in the last 5 months. We're thankful for our families and friends and look forward to celebrating Jesus' birth over Christmas. We have countless memories of the people we've met, the places we've seen, and the experiences we've shared together. As we reflect on our trip, we're inspired once again by the stories of the people we met... those who have little but who are striving with all they have to make a better life... and those who are giving their lives to help others who are poor, orphaned, or oppressed. We pray for God's blessing on all of them and ask for His help to show us what our role is in helping to meet the needs of others in this world that now seems smaller, more personal, and more connected than ever before.

We hope that you and your familes have a wonderful Christmas and that you treasure all the blessings that God has given you.

Best wishes,
Steve, Joe, and David